Wish List

I thought that I'd share a wish list today.  I'm next expecting anyone to give me this stuff, just wanted to post the direction that I'm heading in the shack.  And maybe give my XYL some hints for my birthday and Father's day...  ;-)

It'll also be neat to look back over this list in a few years and see how my wants have changed and if I actually managed to acquire any of this.


For the shack:

• Palstar AT2K
• HF Amp 
• Alpha
• Ameritron
• Shure SM-7B Mic w/ boom
• 6m/2m/70cm verical 
• Diamond V-2000A
• 6m/2m/70cm triplexer 
• Diamond MX-2000N
• Bencher Iambic Paddle
• Uniden HOME PATROL Scanner
• Telepost Inc LP-100A Power/SWR meter
• Telepost Inc LP-500 Station Monitor

For the truck:

• Kenwood TS-480SAT
• GPS with NMEA out
• Green Light Labs GPS for APRS 
• AvMap G6
• Tarheel 100A-HP
• Uniden BCD-996XT Digital Scanner
• Icom ID-1 (look for an upcoming post on what I want to do with the truck)
• Icom IC-2820H with D-STAR and GPS module

For the bench:

• Tektronix 465 O-Scope
• Hakko Hot Air Rework Station
• Drill Press
• PCB Drill
• Capacitor tester

Of course, since I'm dreaming I might as well wish for a new QTH with dedicated room for my shack, and a 300' tower with stacked mono-band beams for all bands, a couple of beverage or rhombic arrays for receive and enough cash not to have to work ever again so that I can enjoy my hobby full time.  ;-D

Anywho, thanks for reading my pointless post of the day!  ;-)

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Installing an IC-10 kit into a Kenwood TS-440S/AT HF Radio

I use Ham Radio Deluxe, or more specifically, Digital Master 780, for most of the digital mode communications that I do (usually just PSK31).  This software is great and does a lot of awesome stuff.  One of those cool things that you can do with HRD is rig control.  This makes it easy to jump from frequency to frequency (QSY in ham-speak) from within the software, instead of having to tune the radio and adjust the software accordingly.  It also keep your PC up-to-date on what frequency your radio is on for automated logging (really help for lazy guys like me).

Anyway, since I have an older radio, I had to modify it with an add-on kit, originally called the Kenwood IC-10 kit.  Kenwood no longer sell this kit since they made the TS-440 over 20 years ago.  However, since this kit is just basically two ICs (an 8251A and a TC4040BP), they can still be obtained.  I got mine off of eBay for $20.  This will allow 4800 baud serial communications via the ACC-1 interface on the back of the radio.

You can then use a round 6-pin DIN connector and a DB9 connector to make a serial interface cable.  Be careful as the TS-440 ACC-1 interface uses TTL voltages (5V) and serial wants to use 12V, you will either need to use Kenwood's IF-232 kit to match the voltages, or use a USB-to-serial converter with normally operates at TTL voltage levels (beware Prolific chipsets).

The install process is fairly simple, it took me around 20 minutes to complete the installation, including the time it took to take the pictures.


This is a picture of the kit itself, basically a serial UART and a CMOS timer chip.  Be sure to take static precautions, it would be a shame to do this install and have it not work due to fried ICs.  Basically, just stay at the same electrical potential as the radio and you'll be fine.  Never touch the chip without touching the radio first.  You could also use a static strap, although I generally find this to be overly cautious unless you are working with extremely sensitive parts (or extremely expensive ones).

Below is a picture of the radio that we are about to perform surgery one, to wit, a Kenwood TS-440S/AT:

Step one is to remove the top cover, which consists of eight screws (four on top, two on each side):

Be sure when you remove the top that you keep track of where the speaker cable goes so that you can put it back together when you are finished.  It is the yellow cable in this picture:

Next, flip it over and repeat the process with the bottom cover (nine screws this time, five on bottom, two on each side):

After that, remove the three screws on the bottom of the heat shield (silver part to the right with the three holes).  Also remove the four screws (two on each side) that hold the front panel in place:

Then remove the two screws that hold the top of the heat shield on:

Finally, you will be able to see the two sockets for the two ICs.  The part of the IC with the half-circle indicates the location of pin one.  This view is from the top of the radio, and pin one goes to the left:

I forgot to take a picture before I put the heat shield back on, but this is what it looks like with the IC installed.  I had to compress the pins on the ICs a bit to get them installed, which is common.  Just be careful not to bend them too much, else they may break.

Put the radio back together in the reverse order of above, and you will be off to the races!

 This is the rig control interface for HRD, you can see where I have set the frequency to the 20m PSK calling frequency:

And this is the radio after reassembly and being controlled by the PC.  The downside to this is that you cannot control the volume, nor can you get current S-level readings from the radio back into the software like you can with newer rigs.  But being able to control a 20 year old radio via the PC at all is awesome!!

Put this project together with the soundcard interface that I build in an earlier post, and you have a fully functional rig for digital modes on the ham bands!  This was a really easy and fun project and I gained a lot of useful functionality from my rig!

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Signs of the times!

So I ordered this awesome LED lit sign for my ham shack!  It cost $28 from ProjectGM.  I liked it so much that I ordered several for my co-workers that have been laboring away with me trying to get our new hospital up and running!

You can get all different designs and all different colors of LED and wood bases.  Give them a holler and tell them that I sent you!  The business is run by a couple of hams in Ohio, my home state.  I get nothing from advertising for them, but they have an awesome product at a great price.

Anyhow, I thought that this was pretty awesome, so I wanted to share!

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Rainy afternoon project with the kids: Coax Tester!

After finishing up the souncard interface yesterday, I thought that I would be done for a few days, but a house full of boisterous kids on a rainy day dictated otherwise.  As they say, necessity is the mother of invention, or in this case, maintaining my sanity was...  ;-)

I recalled watching a YouTube video by W5CYF (Tinker John) on how to make a simple go/go-go coax tester.  It seemed like a good project for the kids and I to do.  Like John, I used a green LED to mean the coax is bad, but hey, it's what I had on hand.

This is a simple, quick and dirty schematic of what we built:

In a project list this, there are a few things that kids can do, and a few that an adult needs to do.  While watching the kids play with the drill or soldering iron would be entertaining in a scary sort of way, the trip to the hospital afterwards would have been annoying.  However, seven year olds are good at sorting resistors by color, and 9 year olds are good at tightening screws.  They are also both helpful when small parts are dropped by fumble fingered parents.  Just remember that kids are kids, and tend to be distracted and not remember the goal.  They also like to fidget A LOT.  My son got to spend a few minutes in his room due to this, but he settled down and was back for the finish and testing.

My Parts List:

• 1 x SO-239 connector
• 1 x 9V battery connector
• 1 x 350 Ohm resistor
• 1 x Green LED
• 1 x Small project box
• 1 x 7 year old boy
• 1 x 9 year old girl

Time to Completion:

• About two hours, after all, the kids were helping me!  ;-)

Here are a few pics:

Here are the two proud builders!

Picture of the tester.

In this picture, I used a small bit of solder to simulate a piece of bad shorted coax.  Notice the green LED is on.  Green usually means good, but in this case, green is NO-GO!

Again, this was a fun little project that will give you an absolute basic go/no-go test of a piece of unknown coax.  It won't tell you impedance or length, if you need those tests go get an MFJ-259B or something similar.  If you want to make sure that you don't have a dead short and won't blow up your finals, this is the tool for you.  ;-)

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Fun with LEDs

After building a quick shelf in my ham shack out of a laminated board and some glass blocks, I decided to pretty it up with some LEDs in the blocks.  Here is a quick video:

I will do a better post of this as soon as I have time with schematics and some pictures of the LED boards themselves, but I wanted to post this today to show off... ;-)  I have two more to build, so I'll include some build pics as well.

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Update to the PTT Mic via USB Project

So since I've gotten into trying to learn Morse code, I needed some type of oscillator, so that I can hear my key as I practice.  You can purchase an oscillator from companies like MFJ, or you can make the on the cheap with a piezoelectric buzzer and a 9v battery.  I chose a slightly different route.

My option was to add a 1/4" jack to my PTT desk mic via USB project box.  I did keep the piezo buzzer in case I wanted to practice without interacting with the PC, but I am currently using a program called MorseRabbit, which can accept input from the keyboard spacebar.  Only, in this instance, the input is coming from my straight key, which in turn is connected to the Teensy USB microcontroller, which is emulating a keyboard.

My Parts List:

• 1/4" mono audio jack (panel mount)
• 5v piezo buzzer
• bit of wire and solder

Time to Completion:

• 30 minutes, including adding the necessary code to the "sketch"

Here is a pic:

Here is a copy of the code "sketch" that I am using:

#include <Bounce.h>

Bounce button0 = Bounce(0, 10);

Bounce button1 = Bounce(1, 10);

void setup() {

  pinMode(0, INPUT_PULLUP);

  pinMode(1, INPUT_PULLUP);

  pinMode(12, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(14, OUTPUT);

}

void loop() {

  // Update all the buttons.  There should not be any long

  // delays in loop(), so this runs repetitively at a rate

  // faster than the buttons could be pressed and released.

  button0.update();

  button1.update();

if (button0.fallingEdge()) {

   // press and release CTRL

   Keyboard.set_key1(KEYPAD_PLUS);

   Keyboard.send_now();

   Keyboard.set_key1(0);

   Keyboard.send_now();

   analogWrite(12, 200);

  }

 if (button0.risingEdge()) {

   // press and release CTRL

   Keyboard.set_key1(KEYPAD_PLUS);

   Keyboard.send_now();

   Keyboard.set_key1(0);

   Keyboard.send_now();

   analogWrite(12, 0);

  }

  

if (button1.fallingEdge()) {

   // press and hold space

   Keyboard.set_key1(KEY_SPACE);

   Keyboard.send_now();

   analogWrite(12, 200);

   //analogWrite(14, 255);

  }

 if (button1.risingEdge()) {

   // release space

   Keyboard.set_key1(KEY_SPACE);

   Keyboard.set_key1(0);

   Keyboard.send_now();

   analogWrite(12, 0);

   //analogWrite(14, 0);

  }  

}

You have to forgive the sloppy wiring, it was too much hassle for this project to etch a pc board.  Now I have the ability to practice CW on my PC, both sending and copying!

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

CW aka Morse Code

So, I want to venture into the land of CW and become a true ham.  When I first attempted getting into Amateur Radio over 20 years ago, in order to gain Novice privileges, you had to demonstrate proficiency in receiving (copying) Morse Code at five words per minute.  This turned out to be my biggest challenge, and the reason that I didn't earn my license back in the late 80s.  Fast forward to today, and I still want to master this.  So, I went to my local ham shop and picked up a straight key, which of course needs to be mounted on something so that it doesn't move all over while you are trying to use it.  This lead to a small project, and the topic of today's post.  This is a quick and easy project, and didn't cost much.  I went to Home Depot to see what I could find, figuring that a block of wood would work.  Well, I found that, and then something even better.  A chunk of base molding was the exact right size, and cost around a buck.  A quick coat of paint, and two screws later, and I had a functional straight key.  Now all I need to do it learn to use it!

My Parts List:

• 1 x Chunk of base molding
• 1 x Straight Key
• 2 x Wood Screws
• 1 x Some old spray paint.  ;-)

Time to Completion:

• It only took a few minutes to mount the key once the paint dried, and only a few minutes to paint it.  The longest part was waiting for the paint to dry!

Here is a pic:

All in all, a simple, fun little project that hopefully will open up a whole new world for me!

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Intermod and Spurious Emissions!

So, as I was scanning the 10m band, I noticed that I was receiving occasional bursts of static on my 2m radio.  These were occurring as I crossed fairly strong carriers, which means that these carriers were interacting with my rig in receive mode, and causing what is called intermodulation, which was resulting in a spurious emission.

Here are some links for more reading on these phenomena: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intermodulation

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spurious_emission

I recorded a quick video of it to show folks that just because you are using a receiver, it does NOT mean that you are not also broadcasting a signal!  Something to be mindful of, especially if you are in an area that is sensitive to RF fields (thinking of mining sites that use an RF signal to detonate explosives, among other scenarios).

I should probably point out that the volume on the radio that I am adjusting is completely down, the only radio that has its volume turned up is my Yaesu FT-2200 2m radio.  The sounds that you are hearing are the spurious emissions generated by my TS-440S tuned to ~28.5MHz being received by my FT-2200 on 147.120MHz.  I should also point out that these are extremely localized and can not be picked up beyond my shack.  I tried with an HT in the yard under the dipole and got nothing.  Also, I apologize for the poor quality of the video, I shot it with my iPhone 3GS, which has a pretty lousy camera.

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Using a PTT desk mic on a PC

So in this post, I'm going to talk about a cool project that I finished a few weeks ago.  I like to use EchoLink (http://www.echolink.org/) to chat with people all over the world.  One of the uses for EchoLink, and the only thing that I use it for, is to connect to a repeater that you are too far away to hit using RF alone.  This software connects you to that repeater, and broadcasts what you say into your PC mic as if you were using a radio.  That being said, I like to feel like I am talking into a real rig, instead of talking on Skype or some other VoIP application when I am using EchoLink, especially since it is only accessible by other licensed Hams.  To that end, I had an old mic laying around, so I decided to connect it to the computer.  There were several obstacles that needed to be surmounted, the first being that the mic used an 8-pin connector for Kenwood HF radios, and the second being that you needed the press the PTT (Push-To-Talk) button in order for your audio to be sent out of the mic's audio pins.  The final issue was that the EchoLink software needs to be "keyed" as well by pushing down the space bar on your PC.  Here is how I solved these issues:

To convert from 8-pin to something that the PC could accept, I wired up the audio pins from an 8-pin male connector (the mic has a female, although it seems as though the names should be reversed) to an 1/8" female audio jack.  I mounted both in a small project box to make the assemblage a little easier to use.  This took care of getting the audio into the PC, but I still had to hit the space bar to "key" EchoLink, and at the same time hit the PTT button on the mic to connect the mic element to the audio pins inside the mic.  This was annoying to say the least.  Enter the Teensy USB Development Board:

This board connects to the PC and is recognized as one of several devices, a keyboard, a flash device, a MIDI device, etc.  The main one that I am concerned with was the ability to emulate a USB keyboard.  I soldered a connection from the PTT pins in the mic jack to one of the digital pins on the Teensy board, and another one to the ground pin.  This allows me to detect when the PTT button is depressed on the mic.  I then took this detection, and triggered a key press event to key EchoLink!  Now I can use EchoLink just like a normal radio, via the desk mic, without keyboard input.  Just for fun, I added a red LED to know when the mic PTT key is depressed (to hopefully avoid "hot-mic" issues).

My Parts List:

• 1 x Teensy USB Board ( http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/)
• 1 x Project Box
• 1 x 8-pin male mic connector
• 1 x 1/8" (3.5mm) audio connector
• 1 x Red LED
• 1 x 220-Ohm resistor

Time to Completion:

• About four hours including figuring out the code for the "sketch" on the Teensy board.

Here is the simple schematic:

Here are a few pics:

Here is the code that I used on the Teensy board (which uses the Arduino IDE environment):


#include <Bounce.h>


Bounce button0 = Bounce(0, 10);


void setup() {
  pinMode(0, INPUT_PULLUP);
   pinMode(12, OUTPUT);
}


void loop() {
  // Update all the buttons.  There should not be any long
  // delays in loop(), so this runs repetitively at a rate
  // faster than the buttons could be pressed and released.
  button0.update();


if (button0.fallingEdge()) {
   // press and release CTRL
   Keyboard.set_key1(KEYPAD_PLUS);
   Keyboard.send_now();
   Keyboard.set_key1(0);
   Keyboard.send_now();
   analogWrite(12, 200);
  }


 if (button0.risingEdge()) {
   // press and release CTRL
   Keyboard.set_key1(KEYPAD_PLUS);
   Keyboard.send_now();
   Keyboard.set_key1(0);
   Keyboard.send_now();
   analogWrite(12, 0);
  }
}

Well, that's all for this post, I hope that you have enjoyed it, I certainly enjoyed making it!

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

The Obligatory Shack Pic

So now I can show you what all of those antenna are used with!  This is a quick overall shot of my "shack" as it stands right now.  I am considering some upgrade options in the near future, so stay tuned to see what kind of rig takes center stage (thinking TS-2000 for the shack and IC-7000 or FT-857D for the truck).

Included in this pic are:

Kenwood TS-440S, 20 years old and still talking around the world!  (just talked to Russia and Ukraine!)
Yaesu FT-2200 (look for an upcoming post on lessons learned about eBay)
MFJ-941D Antenna Tuner
Heath 3A power supply for testing purposes
Kenwood PS-30 for powering the TS-440S
SignaLink USB for APRS and other digital modes (trying to talk to the ISS, but need higher gain antenna)
Wouxun UV3D HT
Kenwood TS-120S (not feeling so well these days)
Homebrew PTT Mic to USB adapter to allow me to use my desk-mic with EchoLink (look for a future post)
Shure 256T desk mic
Kenwood MC-50 desk mic
El-cheapo CW straight-key (again, look for an upcoming post)
Radio Shack SWR/Power meter


Here are some more pics:

So that sums up my current shack.  More details as things change!

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

Last antenna post for now... ;-)

Okay, last one for now.  So the j-pole works pretty well, but I was still staticy when transmitting.  What I needed was a directional antenna for maximum gain.  Again, purchasing one at the Candy Store would have been $50 or more.  But for less than $8 at Home Depot, I was off and running.  When I use this antenna, I am full-quieting on the repeater.  The downside for me right now is that I cannot permanently mount this one outside, as I need to be in the front of the house to point at the repeater that I like to use (147.120MHz,+600,PL-103.5).

My Parts List:

• 10' of 8AWG copper wire (enough for about three antenna like this, I want to make one for 70cm also)
• 10' of 3/4 PVC pipe (again, enough for multiple antenna)
• 50' of RG-58 coax

Time to Completion:

• About four hours

Here is a pic:

More information on this type of antenna can be found at:

http://www.moxonantennaproject.com/

I have to say that I am impressed with how well this antenna functions!  The one thing that I do need to add is a balun at the feed-point, that is on the project list!  ;-)

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

And another antenna!

Alright, this is almost the last one for now, I promise.  I needed something to get better reception on my little handheld Wouxun HT, but didn't feel like spending $25 or so for one from the local ham store (referred to by other hams as the Candy Store).  My solution was to build a roll-up j-pole antenna out of left-over twinlead from my dipole.  Again, before I was not able to use my HT from home as the repeater is clear across town from where I live, and 5W wasn't going to cut it with the little rubber-duck that came with the HT.

My Parts List:

• 6' of 300-Ohm twinlead
• 10' of RG-58 coax with a PL-259
• 1 PL-259 to Reverse-SMA adapter (had to buy this one, too much of a pain to make it)

Time to Completion:

• 30 minutes or so

Here is a pic:

So admittedly I need a better pic of this one.  I'll work on that...

73,

Richard, KK4JDO

First Antenna, 1/2 wavelength 10m dipole

Hi All,

So, since this is about Ham Radio, you had to have guessed that there would be talk about various types of antenna.  I have a terrible dislike of spending money, so instead of buying my first antenna, I decided to build one instead.

As a newly minted Technician class Ham Radio Operator, the only HF bands that you have voice privileges on is the 10-meter band (28.3MHz - 28.5MHz).  You can operate CW on a few lower bands, but since I am still in the process of learning Morse Code  (CW), I decided to build an antenna for use where I can talk on voice (using what is called SSB or Single Side Band).

A dipole is a very basic antenna, and very easy to build.  Basically, you need some wire, and something to use as a feedline, such as coax or twinlead.

My Parts List:

• 20' of stranded copper wire
• 1 x 3/4" PVC "T" fitting
• 2 x 2" pieces of 3/4" PVC pic as insulators
• 20' of nylon rope
• 100' of 300-Ohm twinlead from Radio Shack

Time to Completion:

• One hour to measure, cut, solder, mess-up, re-do, and finish.
• One additional hour to hang between two trees.

Here is a quick pic:

Once it was up in the air, I connected it to my radio via my tuner, and was talking to California, Idaho, Montana using SSB on 28.4MHz!

That it for this post, hope you enjoyed it!

73,

Richard, KK4JDO